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Valtènesi : the OTHER Rosé Wine Region

If you think of rosé from a global standpoint you probably think of Provence.

Justifiably!

Well the small area in Italy & the Consorzio Valtènesi want you to know that they are the OTHER rosé wine region that you also need to know about.

Where Provence produces 200 million bottles of rosé annually, Valtènesi makes 2 million bottles.

Much smaller in scale, but would it surprise you to learn that the two associations have been working together and presenting their wines that events together for the last 5 or so years?

Provence has been taking the Valtènesi region under its wing to help the growers in Valtènesi realize what they have for quality and how to make the most of it.

Vintners In Valtènesi have been making rosé since Roman times, and officially from 1896 the region was making wine with its tradition of “wine of a night” where it is gently pressing grapes and leaving them with the skins for a few hours or up to overnight to obtain the famous pale pink color. This method lives on today and now in the now famous “Chiaretto Valtènesi”.

A small group of us attending the Wine Media Conference converged at the Consortium headquarters, met the association president Alessandro Luzzago (proprietor of Le Chiusure) and tasted through 57 examples from the region (before visiting some wineries).

(And for those in my feed who are not wine professionals, yes we spit out every wine we taste!)

Most made from the indigenous Grapello grape, which could probably be most compared to Pinot Noir, or made from a blended combination of Gropello, Marzemino, Sangiovese and Barbera.

The vintners first focus on getting a quality wine, with the colour to follow thereafter. So you will see various shades of pink across the region’s offerings.

Flavours range from being berry-forward to being more floral on the nose, and on the palate you can have anything from citrus and melon and berry but what carries through for all of them for sure is this string of minerality that is generated from the gravelly soil‘s they have in their lakeside glaciated morainic terroir.

You’ll have to seek these wines out if you’re in Italy. Ask for Valtènesi.

There is some disbursement of these wines around the world but because they make so few of them they’re definitely ones you will have to seek out.

And if you’re planning a visit to Italy then include Lake Garda in your plans and you can visit the region.

Veneto Wines on the rise in BC

The Veneto region of Northern Italy, much like British Columbia, is an intersection of countries, communities and cultures. It is also one of the world’s most dynamic and history-rich wine centres. For the past few years, the complimentary Veneto wine regions of Valpolicella DOC and DOCG wines and Prosecco Superiore DOCG have joined forces to invest resources in trade and media events in Western Canada. Now consumers across BC are taking notice.

Recent sales statistics at BC Liquor Stores confirm growth in consumer demand for wines from both regions. Consistent with global trends that confirm sparkling wine is the hottest growth category, sales of Prosecco sparkling wines have risen 15% since April alone, and an impressive 22% from May 2015 to April 2016. A recent article from Business In Vancouvernoted that sales of Italian sparkling wine in BC have increased 132.5% between 2011 and 2015, while the Prosecco category specifically has risen by 143% in that same period.
The Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore represents the 20% of the Prosecco's world and is produced in the historical area of prosecco production where you get the best expression. In 2015, the sales in Canada of Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG recorded +7.4% compared to 2014.

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By contrast, sales of Valpolicella wines are on a more gradual curve, rising 3% from May 2015 to April 2016 at BC Liquor Stores, yet in recent months have increased by a dramatic 16%, on the heels of Italy as the featured country at the 2016 Vancouver International Wine Festival in February.

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The 2016 Vancouver International Wine Festival featured Italy as the theme country. Last year, Italy surpassed France to become the world’s largest wine producer, according to the European Union. As of March 2015, Italian wine is second only to the USA in the value of imported wines to British Columbia, based on figures from the BCLDB.

BC wine lovers are purchasing these wines because they offer unbeatable value for money, with diverse flavour profiles that make them versatile with West Coast food pairings. Also, the two Veneto regions are embracing environmentally-sustainable winegrowing methods, which resonates strongly with British Columbians. These two regions are the ones to watch, becoming darlings on local wine lists as well.

In Valpolicella DOC and DOCG and Prosecco Superiore DOCG, life revolves around the grape. Together, the two areas showcase a balanced representation of the best of Northern Italian wines. Each region offers what the other does not, making them the perfect pairing.

Value and Quality

The wines of Valpolicella are known for their freshness balanced by natural acidity, moderate alcohol, elegant texture, versatility, and for their authentic expression of terroir. Within Valpolicella, there are five main styles ranging from fresh, fruity and affordable Valpolicella Classico, to complex and full-bodied Amarone della Valpolicella, which are generally more expensive, and able to age gracefully in bottle. In between are Valpolicella Ripassos, which are medium-bodied, food-friendly wines of moderate price, perfect for everyday enjoyment. Flavours within the wines range from fresh raspberry and cherry, to notes of dark chocolate, sweet earth and dried fruit.

Prosecco wines are made using a fermentation process known as the Charmat, or tank method, which adds the sparkle. This process is much less costly than the traditional Champagne, or bottle-fermented, method, which allows most Proseccos to be affordably-priced between $20-30 in British Columbia. A luxurious value, Prosecco wines reveal notes of tropical fruits, pear, citrus and green apple.

smallphoto credits_Consorzio di Tutela del Vino Conegliano Valdobbiadene, foto di Arcangelo Piai

Fabulously Food Friendly

Giulia Pussini, event manager of Consorzio Tutela del Vino Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco, which represents producers from the historical area of Prosecco production and Olga Bussinello, director of Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella agree it's no surprise that British Columbian consumers like both types so much, since they are known to be "wines of pleasure", with the power to tell the story of the regions they come from through the history, tradition, and innovation of the families and people who work there. It's about passion. It's about love. And that's something that everyone can understand. "Prosecco Superiore," says Giulia Pussini, "is so approachable and versatile that it is great as an aperitif or with light cuisine such as seafood, sushi, and other spicy foods."

Sustainability in Action

A key initiative for the Valpolicella region in 2017 is a five-year pilot project with a sharp focus on sustainability. The initiative, which shows leadership within the European Union, encourages producers to eliminate chemical use (herbicides, pesticides) in the vineyard and the winery, reduce energy usage, and improve waste management.

In 2008, a project was launched for the hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene in Prosecco to be recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with certification expected in 2017. The champions of this project point out the unique position that the region has held as both a cultural landscape, and a leader of agricultural innovation, specifically within the field of sparkling wine.

"Valpolicella wines," concludes Bussinello, "could easily be paired with Asian cuisine, beef tenderloin with white truffles and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese fondue, porcini mushroom risotto, or aged cheeses.”

Ultimately, the wines of Valpolicella and Prosecco Superiore DOCG appeal to BC wine drinkers as they offer something for everyone, each at modest price points, while bringing something unique to the dinner table.